Hidden Door shelf
My home business office was messy. After I am done it it's still messy but now it is finished AND it has the secret feature. Well it was technique, Till I has written this.
In one wall of my home office is a 5 feet tall 2 feet wide door to access the closet and crawl space under the garage. This is the time we put holiday decorations, Old objects, And poor quality trash.
This wall was an excellent spot for floor to ceiling bookshelves, Which i've done lots of, But it had this door in the the wall. Perfect answer was a bookshelf that opened.
One day my father in law visited and we started drawing pictures of how bookshelf hidden door could work, How they can hinge,
Where To Buy Cheap Oakley Sunglasses, The best places to hinge, How to cover opening, Are used to help. Following are the highlights from the journey to come.
First thing I did was work out how big and where a bookshelf would need to pivot in order to clear walls and neighboring shelves with minimum gaps. I used the hinge point 7" In from a suitable and 2" In from the front of the cupboard. For sanity I made a scale drawing of shelves and cut out the twisting shelf shape.
With a pin I tried extraordinary pivot ideas, Validating my proportions. The goal was to have the vertical gap between moving shelf box and fixed shelves be engrossed in a single 4.5" Trim writing.
I added a better drawing of the key an area of the unit, The developing center. The right and left side shelves are not to scale. The close up is where i notched the vertical trim to allow the side to side trim to pivot"From" That.
Thanks for your data regarding attachment(Apologize I had to send this as a new comment as as a reply to your response, As to the site keeps telling me to type the two words even though I already did so and only recognized that when I posted this as a new comment). At the least, I'm in the course of building one based on what you documented and wasn't sure until now how the attachment to the frame went I haven't worked with metal much(The welding was a stretch and new thing for me =) So wasn't aware that metal screws can thread into the square tubing to hold well. I was down to the part of putting the inner bookcase shell into the frame and racking your brains on how to hold it there solidly without having something like bolts that would show(Anchors I found at home centers didn't work out easily in my tests in scrap material so I gave up that route). Appreciate the insight and your excellent directions on what you built as well. Thank you.
Wanted complement! The metal frame is about 1/3 of the shelf depth back from the leading. I cut two components of 3/4" Shelves to width of metal box. Placed one inside the frame the particular top and clamped it in place. I then drilled holes through wood and into the metal tubing. I countersunk the holes then affixed sheet metal screws to hold it in place. I did the same on the bottom. Then i did the same on either side. Only exactly"Snuggness" Made every single pretty solid. When i attached the plywood to your back it became"Industrial strength, I covered the screw heads with some of white caulk. They are typically covered by items offered anyway.
I really like this and want to make a bookshelf / cabinet the equivalent. I have been through the measurements and am preparing a drawing to work from but am as a result of the top and bottom measurements. Any addtional additional info would be greatly appreciated. What is the dimension from the top of the steelwork of the door to the foot of the 2" By 2" Limit anchor? What is the distance from the foot of the steelwork of the door to the top of the box section floor anchor. Very best depth of the top facia which hides the ceiling anchor and get the depth of the second section of facia below this? Also what is the depth of the facia a the foot of the cabinet.
What is the depth from the front face of the bookshelf to the plywood in the dust?
Sorry to ask so many topics, Your design is so well thought out that I need to make my measurements as close to yours as possible.
Published kind words. As to master plans and width, I added the attached pdf to show cross parts of the pivot points. I generated all my parts, Good my floor to ceiling, And then sized the frame to fit with the various components I had. The 1/2 inch nasty spacer was my"Vibrate room" I the upper limit pivot point loose, Inserted the entranceway pivot into it, And held the floor pivot onto the bottom pin and placed the frame. When it was square and level I stiffened the bolts to the joist, And bolted it to a floor. Everything after that was cut to fit the resulting dimensions which in turn included drywall, Floor covering, Are used to help.
Hope it will help.
Good day Kenbob. Was looking for PDF, It was actually useful. Sorry to keep asking them questions but I wonder whether you would mind me asking some more dimensions. I notice that we have two trims at the top of the bookshelf,
Discount Oakley Sunglasses Sale, One hiding the ceiling anchor and one hiding the steelwork of the orifice door, You are aware of vertical dimensions of these. There is also a trim / plinth towards the end which hides the ground achor, Get the dimension of this?
To allow the door to go in and out I notice that you refer to the cabinet"Passing like a" The trim and that it possesses a great 45 degree angle on it. Have you any additonal close ups of this, Either additonal diagrams or pictures showing this? Any images showing benefit for those greatly appreciated.
Just the next question, Did used 3/4" MDF / particalboard(18mm) Or even a 1/2" (12mm).
In the grass i just used 2.5" Trim across the base,
Oakley Outlet Store Mn, Then cut a strip short enough to pay off this( With reference to 2" ) And placed it on the ground inset as far as possible. Seems to be like a toe kick area. If you lay next to the cabinet on to the floor you could tell there is a gap back there, But my floor is too contrived to allow that:)
Check really memorable gift above for the close up of the trim gap cut.
Good project, Great sharing. I also have a customer to whom I suggested this basic idea to, They want to hide a gun safe and enjoy a basic panic room at reasonable cost. I found your project during your search for ideas. I need a nice fastener, That is hidden and or rc that would work if power was off. I am feeling simple slide bolts on inside to secure once inside, But need something more solid than permanent permanent magnet catch for keeping it closed, This is in a large(16x24) Red cedar walk in at home so"Bookcase" Will most likely have sweaters or linens in it. Have sufficient woodworking tools and knowledge but still puzzled on lock. Any ideas is the welcomed. I need the ideas fairly fast preferably. Thanks before hand. Again very neat project and great sharing,
I appreciate kind words.
I think the essense could be easily modified to be a safe room door. It will absolutely support extra weight of steel or cement.
Plenty of people below have suggested ideas for latches
As to the best, Speedy,
Oakley Sunglasses Shop, Comfortable, And undetected lock mechanism: Definitely the idea is a variation of the magnetic latches they sell in the baby proofing section. A strong latch is found behind a panel. This latch is released by placing a powerful magnet externally the panel. In practice for anyone going a that is sitting on the shelf. By placing this paperweight in the right spot in stock, The latch is established, And the door can be closed and opened freely. If the body weight is moved,
Discount Oakley Sunglasses, The entranceway latches when closed. To work the latch absolutely had to have a slight bit of free play, So I would come with a light magnetic stop to keep the door from being able to rattle against the latch( Not too 300 pound doors rattle much) And it would also keep the door set up to allow smooth release of the latch( An almost balanced mechanism with strong magnet attached to pull part.
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