Arduino hen house Controller
The actual intention was to use the RK Education Technology Solutions RK L298 H bridge board. This little board can deliver 2A per channel could 2 channel H Bridge. It also has a handy 5V regulator which might be powered off the same battery as the DC motor.
In testing I found that the motor was producing far too much noise and was severely affecting the arduino through its managed supply. Fortunately the PCB is designed as that I could separate the regulator section and feed it directly with a 9V plug power supply which immediately resolved my noise issues. I have also read elsewhere folks not recommending utilizing the same battery for the motor and arduino.
Again this H Bridge could be scratch built or bought as an arduino shield but do guarantee the power output cables are robust enough to take the high current. I wanted to keep the heavy current unregulated circuits from the arduino so this is why I went for this option. It's all regulated nicely tucked behind an airy box which hides the sealed lead acid battery.
I sourced a simple and sensible trickle charge circuit to keep the 6V battery topped up. This I managed to mount all the constituents on a small square of vero board. The preset pot is required to be set to provide 7.2V on the charger result(No battery installed) And itemizes their service the battery up to 0.5A which is usually the maximum charge firms recommend for 6V batteries. The motor can tolerate short burst of 6 7V and in fact really helps when pulling up the door assembly.
All government bodies and power amps I placed heat sinks on as the:
H Bridge does get warm when lifting up the threshold as it takes a whooping 2.5A for 3 4 moments. I could use both channels together to provide 4A capacity but the current is only for short bursts and within the brands specs
5V regulator on the RKL298 board does get warm that the arduino display LCD light is on for viewing ACCC status
LM137T can get warm if at all the 6V battery has been drained max output is 0.5A
As see in the picture I used ribbon cable and IDC hoods to connect the arduino to the motor controller and the 5V regulator to the arduino. The trickle charger is coupled to the H Bridge power input using the same terminals to connect the battery. A diode in series from the trickle charger stops any nasty back EMF affecting the trickle charge circuitry and draining battery power.
Hi I am probably about a month away from building ver2 which uses a rotary switch and a 4 x 20 LED screen. All the constituents are modules except for the Arduino board which is a modified prototype board which you could use an Uno v3 if you don't fancy any soldering. I have attached a some of images to inform you the new hardware layout and screen. As such I didn't use shields just discrete modules with interconnect wires which you'll do with the ver1 design.
Any motor module that can deliver 2 3amps normally has an LM298n chip with the 2 channels linked together will do. Various very cheap 1302 RTC modules with battery holder. I used a cheap 20x4 LCD in 4bit mode with typical crystal LCD library. You'll find shields to fit the UNO with integrated analogue keyboard and screen you can use. Hope that
I launched a 10x10 shed for my two geese. I adore your plans, I am going to use them with some change. It will have a steel plated door because i live down the middle of the woods and foxes and other such animals are common. To heat my coop i own a forced air propane heater. The unit is also a a/c so during the warm months the vents are blowing nice cool air. All the walls and doors are covered, Do you have an indicator for insulating the automated door?
As a final comment i wish to thank you for caring for the ex battery chickens. For a unrealted way: Probably the my geese broke is femer(Which happens to be inside its body,
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I need first of all to congratulate you for this great design and addition!
I've been planning for some time to implement for my own coop an automatic door but with the aid of an LDR(We have no lights how the coop is),
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As I have almost no idea of electronics, Just good soldering strategies and good"Follow information" Skills I have in all probability a couple of rather"Foolish" Troubles(English is not my native language so you might possess already answered this in your instructable and I just didn't get it!).
Is the output of the trickle charger connected on the energy input of the H Bridge? Is electric battery connected in the same power input of the H Bridge?
Does everything work with the main power supply and charge the battery immediately and when the main power fails the battery kicks in?
Thanks to you and once again thumbs up,
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Firstly,
Where To Buy Cheap Oakley Sunglasses, A great instructable I'll definately be basing my set up o it in the year.
One suggestion That would be good is some form of timed switch to trigger an LED light in the coop that would increase the light hours to ensure decent egg production in the darker winter weather. NOT on an electric battery level, But I've read it can improve with the chickens to have a minimum of about 11hours light a day.
That's not me an electronic/programming buff, So there's every chance it sure isn't possible,
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I wait for version 2. Any ideas when it will ready?
Firstly many thanks to people who have given me some great feedback and have built their own chicken coop controller.
I am currently acting on version 2 which has:
A visual indication the door has closed profitably,
Ability to turn on a low power heat lamp when the local climate drops too low
Greater display and time setting
Those who want to keep the lights on for a little while to keep their egg production up. Chickens normally needs10 hours of light to manufacture a single egg
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