If you're like me and have spent years tinkering with FDM printers—endlessly leveling beds, cleaning up stringy prints, and sanding rough surfaces—you might be wondering if there's a better way. That question led me down the rabbit hole of resin printing. After months of research, hands-on experience, and a few messy mistakes, I can confidently say that switching to a 3d resin printer was one of the best decisions I’ve made for my creative projects.
In this post, I’ll walk you through why I made the switch, what I’ve learned, and what you should keep in mind if you’re considering diving into the world of resin 3D printing.
Resin 3D printers use a completely different technology from traditional filament-based (FDM) printers. Instead of melting plastic filament, they use UV light to cure liquid resin layer by layer. This process is known as SLA (Stereolithography) or more commonly in desktop machines, MSLA (Masked Stereolithography).
The biggest advantage? Detail. A 3d resin printer can produce incredibly fine features—think intricate miniatures, smooth surfaces, and minimal layer lines. It’s like going from VHS to HD in terms of print resolution.
But there’s more to the story than just better print quality.
The first time I held a resin print, I was blown away. The detail was astonishing—tiny text, sharp corners, smooth curves. Even with the best FDM printers, I was never able to achieve this level of precision. As someone who creates prototypes and figurines, this was a game changer.
Yes, resin printing does involve cleaning and curing. But once I got into the rhythm of it, I found that the cleanup was actually easier than endless sanding and filler priming. Prints came off the build plate looking almost ready to paint.
This surprised me. With FDM, I’d regularly deal with nozzle clogs, bed adhesion issues, or layer shifts. Resin printers are simpler mechanically. Once I dialed in exposure settings and got the hang of supports, I experienced a much higher print success rate.
I won’t sugarcoat it—resin printing has its quirks. Here's what I learned the hard way:
Resin smells. Even the “low odor” kinds still have a noticeable chemical scent. I set up a small air purifier and made sure my workspace was well-ventilated. This isn’t a hobby you want to do in your bedroom.
Always wear gloves. Uncured resin is toxic and can irritate your skin. I keep a small resin cleanup station with nitrile gloves, isopropyl alcohol, and paper towels. It’s not scary—just something to respect and handle responsibly.
A liter of resin can cost more than a spool of filament, but for the level of quality you get, I found it worth every penny. I print fewer “test” pieces now because things just work. And I don’t waste hours reprinting failed parts.
If you’re ready to dive in, don’t just grab the cheapest printer on Amazon. I made that mistake with my first one—it worked, but the print volume was too small and the interface was clunky. I eventually upgraded to a more reliable, well-supported model with better features like:
High-resolution screen (4K or better)
Decent build volume
Robust community support
Easy bed leveling
Brands like Anycubic, Elegoo, and HeyGears are leading the charge, offering machines that are beginner-friendly without compromising on quality.
Once you print something, it’s not done until it’s cleaned and cured. This was the biggest change from FDM for me, but after a week or so, it became second nature.
Cleaning: I use 91% isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush to gently clean prints.
Curing: A basic UV curing station or even sunlight can work to harden the print fully.
Supports: Removing supports takes finesse. I let prints soak a bit and then clip supports carefully to avoid damage.
The key is to treat it like a craft rather than just a machine operation. Once you get your workflow down, it becomes second nature.
Not every project needs resin, but here are a few things I’ve found resin printers excel at:
Miniatures and tabletop gaming pieces
High-detail prototypes and product models
Dental models and jewelry molds
Cosplay accessories and small props
Art sculptures with fine surface textures
If you care more about accuracy and finish than sheer volume or strength, resin is likely the right choice.
Absolutely. Resin and FDM complement each other. I still use my FDM printer for large structural parts, quick prototypes, or mechanical models. Resin is for the detail work. It’s like having a toolbox—each tool has its purpose.
Switching to a resin printer isn’t just a tech upgrade—it changes how you think about making things. The quality boost alone justified the change for me. Yes, there’s a learning curve and some extra cleanup, but the results are absolutely worth it.
